FASHION & ART COMMENTARY


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(Left): Picasso’s Dream , (Right): Oscar de La Renta 2012 collection inspired by modernism in terms of colors, lines and shapes.

When we think of fashion, we all think of art, there’s a strong connection one can not ignore, in fact I think of designers as artists with a highly creative talent with just a simple garment they get to turn things out beautifully. However, to attain this they need to be inspired, history showed us that nearly most designers got their brainstorm from a certain art movement or piece for example in 1965 Piet Mondrian paintings become the reason behind the Yves saint Laurent “ iconic cocktail dress” collection design.

(Left)The Yves St Laurent dress was inspired by the abstract paintings (right) of the Dutch De Stijl artist Piet Mondrian It became known as the Mondrian Collection and was featured on the front of French Vogue in September 1965.
(Left)The Yves St Laurent dress was inspired by the abstract paintings (right) of the Dutch De Stijl artist Piet Mondrian It became known as the Mondrian Collection and was featured on the front of French Vogue in September 1965.

Oscar de La Renta (the founder) was known to be an outstanding talent , believed that everything bought inspiration from amazing woman he met ,to his roots, nature and travels. Born in the Dominican Republic 1932, as known to be a Spanish colonial going back 500 years in history, left school to study art in Madrid he then was trained by Cristobel Balenciaga. All his designs were so clear that he was so inspired by the Spanish Culture. His eye recognized every detail he was so influenced by the great history of Spain, from its flamenco gypsies to the provincial shepherds heavy wool capes, coats and eventually he would showcase his own exclusive signature in Paris. As quoted in his legendary world of stylebook he would recreate Andy Warhol flower paintings, turning them into a print for a day dress with slanted pockets and a soft draped neckline 1. The art paint done was an outcome of a photograph of several hibiscus flowers.

Oscar, Spring 2015
Oscar, Spring 2015

How can impressionism developed in the 19th century be translated into today’s fashion, its all about light ,color and breaking free from rules . In other means a direct message was told, and basically that was what Oscar was able to display in all his collections. His connection with impressionism was very clear by the way he designed his dresses at his earlier design stage and later on his career life where he created a feminine refined silhouettes, and soft ruffles. He just had something about layers of ruffles or petal like layers of silk flowers, he was so inspired by the beautiful nature of his hometown. He always designed delicate impressionist prints making his dresses a wearable art. Most of his dresses were either delicate in fabric or had this painterly floral prints ,fitted bodice with a peplum. How more feminine can a lady get while wearing his gowns . He refined the ladylike looks , he stayed loyal to his classical elegant theme .

Oscar ,Spring 2010
Oscar ,Spring 2010

Fashion today, is simply influenced by all forms of art, such as music, photography , painting, to a certain history era. Art is a way of life that we live and by the way we dress we can share a mutual message, that we are similar in mind, taste and lifestyle. I think that art today is a universal language that can connect people together from all around the globe ,fashion is a piece of art that designers created from a simple fabric to a stunning piece of admiration that we see on catwalks. Fashion shows that we attend now are more exciting and thrilling than ever before simply because designers are getting creative even on how they showcase their collection believing in the say “ presentation is everything”. Karl Lagerfeld for an example used his Spring /Summer 2015 fashion show in Paris to make a political statement. He acknowledged the feminism and peace issue and bought it to stage , while showcasing his collection that woman have equal rights to men.

Chanel Protest. S/S15.Paris
Chanel feminist Protest. S/S15.Paris

Finally, since most fashion shows are hosted in museums and galleries this proves that art and fashion are inseparable they complete each other in every aspect. Together they create a fun vibe and attract a lot of attention to the collection and brand. Fashion today truly plays a vital role in an economy and its society so let’s hope those amazing designers continue to grant us with more glamour and creativity.

TREND OVERVIEW :3D EMBELLISHMENT


The Spanish heritage was the leading influence that we spotted during the New York fashion week of S/S 16. You can tell how most designers were inspired by Spain. All the collections debuted had somehow a similar trait in terms of modern romance, refined ruffles, vibrant crimson , and lace . There were also a mix of floral prints and forms of design embroidery. Here is a 3D Embellishment seen in Oscar de La Renta fashion show that is predicted to be the next uprising trend.

Details of the 3D Embellishment from the SS 2016 runway. Copping created a very luxurious finish on Spanish inspired fabric adding a whimsy soft touch.
Details of the 3D Embellishment from the SS 2016 runway. Peter Copping created a very luxurious finish on Spanish inspired fabric adding a whimsy soft touch.

As seen , in Paris, London ,Milan and New York fashion weeks a lot of trends are emerging this upcoming season but the most common one was the Embellishment. Oscar de La Renta and many other designers adopted this trend such as Christian Dior , and Prada.

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Left: Prada SS16 , Right: Dior SS16
Oscar SS16
Monique Lhuillier SS16

This season the old stitching technique of embellishment was spotted in most fashion shows. Most Designers such as Oscar de la Renta , Dior and Prada all had this featured in unique fabrics and adorned with precious stones to give a youthful look. This altered the definition of modern romanticism, also making a whole outfit a multi-wear for day and night.

Embellishment techniques were known from the 1920s using threadwork . The idea of sewing pearls , jewels (gold/silver) onto a garment is an old one and was practiced before the renaissance period and has remained popular till this day. The 3D embellishment adds elegance and sophistication to any simple outfit and will be appealing to only those who enjoy glamour and sophistication. After the renaissance period the embellishment techniques evolved in terms of trimming , beading and couching , and most important is that you have the creative mind to a design a beautiful piece.

A 1950 embellished dress by Cristobal Balenciaga
A 1950 embellished dress by Cristobal Balenciaga

This type of rich sewing was always in style but in the fashion industry there are some essential factors required to make it a trend. In 1955 , when seen Grace Kelly the American fashion icon wearing this yellow gown, here came the rise of the embellishment scene. Obviously it’s all in the finishing and details that make a gown special and a woman lavish.

Grace Kelly , a fashion icon as seen 1955
Grace Kelly , a fashion icon as seen 1955

Fabrics and 3D embellishment are a great duo, together they add a new essence to the outfit. The most ordinary embellishment stitches , whether created by hand or machine can be made beautifully with different beads and buttons. The only advantage to machine use is the speed of it getting done with simple stitching, but with embellishment such as bullions , that require knotting , it has to be done by hand. Finally, we come to look at the social and environmental sustainability , since the machine is taking over hand work detailing , we should be aware of this hand-made craft and keep it alive in case we face unpredicted problem while using sewing machine . If we dismiss such profession and depend only on the machine the economy will be affected by the people who lost their job, causing social issues to rise in the horizon.

Finally , let’s hope the predicted trend mentioned , get to hit everywhere , we just need to wait and see what celebrities are yet to wear .

Image courtesy (by Order):

1.Oscardelarenta.com

2(left): Prada.com , (Right): Dior.com

3. Moniquelhuiller.com

4.Copyright © AFP / Albin-Guillot / Roger-Viollet – Cristobal Balenciaga. Digital image. http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-history/1950s-1960s/. N.p., n.d. Web. 25 Oct. 2015. <http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-history/1950s-1960s/&gt;.

5.https://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=embellishment+grace+kelly&term_meta%5B%5D=kelly%7Ctyped. N.p., n.d. Web. <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/99079260527073302/&gt;.

S/S 16 OSCAR DE LA RENTA COLLECTION REVIEW


How many fashion shows you attended took your breath away where the whole collection is stunning , but yet wearable? Very few, however, when it comes to the the prominent Fashion designer Oscar de la Renta its an “exception”. He was known to be giving woman power by dressing them with his regal designs. As a designer, he had an eye and taste for what women are after; he believed they should feel feminine, comfy and chic all in the same time. In the 1960s his turning point was when he dressed Jacqueline Kennedy the first lady at that time, and by then in 1965 The Oscar de La Renta House was founded.

The designer at the end of a 1997 show in Paris.
The designer at the end of a 1997 show in Paris.

The Dominican Republic born Fashion designer lived in Spain and Europe for a long time, which seems to show so much in his dresses creation and choice of garments, very soft and classic. He had so much pride to his hometown once stated “My great strength is knowing who I am and where I come from”- my island. In his early years of design in the 1960s,De la Renta used unique color, fabric and embellishment which made his collection so popular in that period and remained iconic to this day. He often referred to his tropical background and vibrant color of the island as a source of inspiration for his unique designs.

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In October of 2014 Peter Copping Joined the Oscar’s Fashion House as creative Director. He proved to share common design traits as the Co. founder where he included 3D embellishment, ruffles (inspired of flamenco dress) and feminine waist cut.

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Elegance, outgoing, and old style glamour is exactly what springs to mind the moment I got to watch the Spring/Summer 16 runway show which took place in New-York there was something impeccable about the collection. During an interview Copping stated he was searching for modernism whilst have a hint of history for the upcoming Season. A cultural heritage has been truly embraced in this collection, which showed classical Spanish signature , that he thought would be a kind tribute to the founder, such as implementing lively colors (vibrant crimson) ,flamenco dresses, lace , tulle , vibrant jewel ,and studded espadrilles. The brand seems to stay true to its identity, rich heritage and its all time reference which was Traditional Spanish costume. This made the designer grow in design but in the same time implement a new era gesture of “casual chic” to the fashion house.

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I personally loved the whole collection , and thought that Copping did a great job by taking the house fashion line to another level of young ,and contemporary while conveying a deep reference point of the fashion house by designing delicate garments with a Spanish romantic twist. He involved the need of nowadays woman lifestyle by adding a bit of ecstasy, where an innovative wider young generation will be captivated , thus style will start to evolve with time further than what we predict in the fashion world.

*Images courtesy of Oscardelarenta.com